Christmas is never a big wine drinking event for us, with a small family who just don’t drink a lot of alcohol, and usually a fair bit of driving to be done. But as I reflect on what we did drink over the two days, it was 100% one grape variety only.
Riesling. And a nice selection of them at that.
2010 Auburn Lowburn Riesling:
(Not pictured) In a quiet spot right now, the gush of citrussy tropical youth this vineyard shows has gone to sleep, and this needs some time to show its secondary characters.
2006 Craggy Range Glasnevin Gravels:
Last drunk 2 years ago. This has changed. A lot. This is now a glass of bickfords lime cordial, with a juxtaposition of lively spearmint like freshness against the developed characters of petroleum jelly. The balance and flavours could easily be Australian, in the green and yellow fruit spectrum rather than tilting toward citrus. Unexpected, and likeable for its clean purity, quite different to the complexity of its youth. Drink up. 89/100
2008 Donnhoff Oberhauser Liestenberg Kabinett:
This has come along nicely in the last two years, settling down and integrating a lot. Creaming soda and lemonade in its character still, such a joyful thing. Settling into its lemon lime groove, fresh flavours with that green herb touch and a slatey sulphur edge I hadn’t noticed before. Now with an assured, relaxed summer drink character. Love it. 91/100
2007 Donnhoff Norheimer Kirscheck Spatlese:
Light golden colour. Slightly custardy vanilla nose over quince and nectarine, Delicate to smell all in all with its effusive youth now behind it. Palate is also delicate with the flush of white fleshed peach and lemon curd lightly touched with first toasty honey of middle age, also joined by custardy vanilla tones. A little muted in flavour, but still an acid zing nicely in harmony with its sweetness to make this balanced and understated. Good wine. 88/100
2005 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Auslese Goldkapsel:
This is an unassuming little thing, quite shy for this quality level. First couple of sips only say “look harder” – in that very Zilliken way. There is some lime fruit, there is some vanilla bean, creme patissiere, there is some delightful apricot and cumquat. There’s a lovely acid play and a lengthy finish, all woven together in a classically styled old skool package. Lovely wine, but be careful – its not as sweet as some at this pradikat level. Way too young, and hard to rate – should be quite something in 5 to 10 years.