There’s been a fair bit if controversy among about the Pyramid Valley Pinot Noirs of late, at least among my personal drinking circles. The micro-production chardonnays (50 cases!) have been collecting stunning reviews and I’ve never got around to opening one. Anticipation and trepidation.
There’s a lot of colour on this, for a four year old chardonnay. Seeing this much golden yellow so soon raises the spectre of oxidation or at least a rapidly advanced wine, which would be a disaster under a screwcap. But the smells and tastes on offer here are something quite different…
This has hallmarks of a top chardonnay, hazelnuts, cashews, nougat, cumquat rind and peaches to smell. Inviting and intriguing, expressive but still coy. There are worked, oxidative, oyster like elements in the palate profile, probably a reflection of the wild yeast ferment and 10 months on lees. It’s a melange of nougat, cashews, cumquat and quince, with some crushed rock minerality and a seaspray element going on here. Piercing lemon lime acidity on an insistent finish.
A sitting down, thinking wine. Me likely very much. 93/100.