2007 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin 1er les Champeaux

Another look at these dreaded leaking 2007 Fourriers – and this one tastes OK – a step up from earlier bottles.

It pours a limpid slightly bricking red, which in context is uninviting.  However things change from the first sniff – orange pith, chook manure, and dark cherries – a nice change from vegetal, bacterial spoilage type smells some earlier ones have given off.  Brightly acidic in the citrus spectrum, and a fair bit of stalk character here too keeps this fresh, if just on the edge of OK.  Concentrated dark berry fruit, firm chewy tannins, decent length, although there seems to be a Cabernet like mid palate gap.

Not a flattering sounding note, but this was acceptable and almost a relief after a few disasters.  85/100 – and an ongoing warning that if you’re going to spend this kind of money on wine ($106 is the price I have in the database), be sure of provenance and storage.

Posted in Burgundy, France, Notes, over $100, Pinot Noir, Wine | 1 Comment

2011 Cristom Eileen Vineyard Pinot Noir

Cristom is a highly regarded Oregon producer who focuses on pinot noir, and makes a smattering of other varieties, both white and red.  They release a few pinot noir cuvees, and four single vineyard wines, this being one of the latter.  The cristom_eileen_2011_319x4791Eileen Vineyard is the youngest of the four single vineyards Cristom releases and also the largest with over 20 acres of of Clones 114, 115, 777, Pommard and Wädenswil clones. Its high in altitude too.

This is cherry red in the glass, and for some reason I get the sense this wine is smiling at me.  Smoky smells and tastes might reflect the 17 months in oak, 45% of which was new, as might some of the vanilla and caramel waftings.  This is supple red cherries and strawberries. Immediately approachable with some darker fruits breathing up over time, and a gentle fine tannin structure intermingled with delicate spices on the finish, and some nervy acids which give it tension and the impression of a bit of warmth, despite the 13.3% alcohol.  This is a wine that has a lot to say, and it is whispering gently right now.  Over time it will find its voice – give it 3 to 5 years. Like this rather a lot.  91 points with upside.

Posted in Notes, over $100, Pinot Noir, USA, Wine | Leave a comment

Benjamin Leroux Savigny-les-Beaune 2012

Benjamin Leroux Savigny-les-Beaune 2012

From a 375ml bottle. Match-sticky. And then quite bulky, with animalé and minerals, musk and ripe cherries. The palate is delicate, light red fruits, but really not convincing. It seems to be missing something in the mid-palate. Dry minerals on the finish. Big and raw at the moment….. might settle and get a point or two more. Sealed under cork. 13.0% abv. 86+ points. Drink 2016-2020.

Posted in $20 to $50, Burgundy, France, Notes, Pinot Noir, Price, Varietal/Style, Wine | Leave a comment

Kaestler Barbera d’Anunda 2013

Kaestler Barbera d'Anunda 2013

The wine name is a play on words I assume, combining Tanunda (in the Barossa Valley) with d’Alba and/or d’Asti (the home of Barbera in Piedmont). I typically don’t like these gimmicks, but I’ll pay this one. The wine is aged in 2 and 3 year old French barriques.

A bright red; playful. Bright cherry savouriness, dry spices, not showing any oak. On the palate, a raspberry dryness, mixed spices, cinnamon quills, fennel, lots of acid. Not especially fruity or generous. Finishes very dryly. Needs food. Screwcap. 12.5% abv, which is low. Was $20 ish. 85 points. More points with food, if that’s the way you rock.

Posted in $20 to $50, Australia, Barbera, Barossa Valley, Notes, Price, Varietal/Style, Wine | Leave a comment

Les Clos Perdus Le Rouge 2012

Les Clos Perdus Le Rouge 2012

A good ruby red in colour. The nose seems mature (and for a wine that is oh so young), but it is still juicy and savoury; and by mature I mean it seems to heading down to funky town. But it does clean up a bit with time. Cherries, blackberries, plums, a bit brambly, river stones, some dried herbs, a touch of liquorice. Certainly on the drier side initially, and might seem a bit strange compared to a lot of mainstream Australian wine, but with time there is a thick vein of minerally red fruits and some barnyard characters (but nothing off-putting, at least to me). Drink soon, 2014 to 2016. 89 points

Posted in $20 to $50, France, Languedoc, Notes, Price, Varietal/Style, Wine | Leave a comment

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 2007

Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 2007

This was opened late one night, one of those nights where common sense has long since left the building. Luckily there were no wheelie bin races and exhaustion must have reigned because I found three-quarters of the bottle in the fridge the following day. And it looked a damn sight better than I expected. None of the 2007 characters I was fearing; and the only better wines from that vintage that I have tried were from Domaine Rousseau. Beautiful expressive and pure fruits, lightly bodied, cherries and spice and harmony. Not especially complex, or alluring on the nose, but still very enjoyable. 87 points. 12.5% abv. Drink 2014-2020.

Posted in Burgundy, France, Notes, over $100, Pinot Noir, Price, Varietal/Style, Wine | Leave a comment

Hoddles Creek 1er Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2012

Hoddles Creek 1er Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2012

It’s taken me six months or so to get to a bottle of this one. I loved the 1er Pinot Noir, and I was hoping for a similar result. Stylistically different to the Sorrenberg I had recently, being more fruit forward, driven by juicy peaches, not that it suffers for it, and not to suggest that it is a fruit bomb, because the fruits are accompanied by a nuttiness and toasty oak, all hemmed in by some fine lemon and grapefuit acidity. Very fine indeed, though quite elemental: looked very good on the first night, and even better on the next. Screwcap. Drink 2015-2020. 92 points.

Posted in $20 to $50, Australia, Chardonnay, Notes, Price, Varietal/Style, Wine, Yarra Valley | 1 Comment

Vietti Barbera d’Asti “La Crena” 2010

Barbera d'Asti La Crena 2010

Plums and spices, roasted nuts, lovely spices, fruit forward and bouncy. A dry palate, full bodied, savouriness and earth tempering the ripe fruits. Lots of acid too. A rich core of fruit, with power in the mid-palate. From the mystery pile. Seemed New World and quite young. Shiraz or maybe a blend of Shiraz/Cabernet. I was completely wrong, though I suppose it could be argued that it is made in a New World style. Sealed under cork. 14.0% abv. 91 points. Drink 2014-2018.

Posted in $50 to $100, Barbera, Italy, Notes, Piedmont, Price, Varietal/Style, Wine | 2 Comments

2006 S C Pannell Nebbiolo

s c pannell nebbioloNewer vintages of this have been getting big wraps of late.  This was delicate and needed lots of breathing as a young wine, but now its ready to drink with much less effort.

Some bricking at the rim, this has the smells of bottle age: old cupboard, tea.  Its what you expect from nebbiolo structurally with that fine but in your face tannin style standing out.  This is soy sauce and graphite to taste, with the tail end of blackcurrant fruit, and tomato leaf acids to close.  Glossy and slick, this is secondary and savoury and demands food.

Cellared this a little too long for me, but enjoyable all the same – your mileage may vary.  87/100 and I’m sure it would have been a few points higher a couple of years ago.

Posted in $20 to $50, Adelaide Hills, Australia, Nebbiolo, Wine | Leave a comment

2007 Domaine Fourrier 1er les Cherbaudes

fourrier cherbaudesThese 2007 Fourriers have had a sad existence, this one no exception. Leaking when they arrived, supposedly due to very high fill levels on the bottling line, and not due to being heat affected in transit.  According to the importer that is, but feel free to make up your own mind.

Sent to auction a couple of years ago, and rejected because of the leakage (and yet the same auction house has sold two entire cellars I know of, both known to be heat affected).

This just doesn’t taste very nice – this one being no exception.  Structurally this has a lot going for it, the texture and weight is right in the slot.  And I guess there is some berry fruit under there.  Somewhere.  But this tastes of rotting vegetation and forest floor.  “Savoury” if you are being polite.

Also noticed the colour on this is quite brown, so maybe we have a premox effect here.  In any case I can only score this 81/100 and I fear that is being generous.

Posted in Burgundy, France, Notes, over $100, Pinot Noir, Wine | Leave a comment