Some wines at our Easter dinner – recorded for posterity. Notes and scores recorded after the event – any inaccuracy is my error alone:
14 Chatto Isles Vineyard Pinot: This was apparently green and sulphury and awkward the ngiht before but is now showing some lovely cherry fruit. Yes it shows some greenish stems, but to me, not to any level of distraction. Lovely. 89 BCP
13 Roumier Chambolle Musigny: I don’t have much exposure to Roumier – this is as good a village level wine as I have seen. Pure and clean right now, red berries, cranberry acids, fine silky tannins. Not especially complex at the moment, but so bright and approachable. Wouldn’t pick this for the long haul but who cares. 90 BCP
01 Rousseau Clos St Jacques: Middle aged now, and quite a complete wine. Smoky veil to it, and shows some stalks even now, pure forest berry fruit here. Well resolved already, this could go longer but really, why wait. Lovey, lovely wine. Everything in balance, tannins starting to resolve but still framing the wine very nicely. 93 BCP.
10 Giacomo Conterno Cascia Francia Barolo: Oh wow. This has it all. New style in that it is not ferociously tannic, and it is Barolo in its tar and roses frame, has just the right amount of baked earth warmth, a bowl full of forest berries, enough acids, enough tannin, perfectly ripe. A finish that goes on for an age. Wow. Just wow. I’ve also been fortunate enough to see other recent vintages of this, and the 10 is so much more approachable already. Will it improve? Maybe, but at the least it is so beautifully balanced it will delight for a long time. 98 BCP
12 Kusuda Pinot Noir: In the middle of all the old world madness was this. And it didn’t look out of place, beautiful bones, with its bright airy red fruits differentiating it from so may Kiwi pinots, and making it a tough options wine. 92 BCP
12 Mongeard Mugneret Grands Echezeaux: This looked oddly heavy, but that might have been its place in the lineup. Dynamic Lifter and plums, coffee and black fruits are there to tease out, but this is way too young. 92 BCP here, but this is really a guess based on potential.
10 Vietti Lazzarito: Had been decanted for some hours. I never thought I would say a Vietti cru wine would look awkward but after the Conterno, ow do you approach wines like this? Lovely forest berry fruit, serene among its sawn pine tannin frame. Plenty of density and length. 94 BCP
10 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino: Evolved a lot over the hour we looked at this, and the owner was concerned the bottle might have been a fake. If it was it was a good one – and the hour of airtime really helped. ANother beautiful Italian wine of balance and power. Note taking abiltiy was well faded by this time of night though. Estimate 94-96BCP on this showing.
06 Domaine Dujac Morey St Denis 1er: Merde, black fruits, baking spice. To me showed a little older than 06 might. No ability to judge wines left by now.
12 Sassicaia: didnt get to try this. Shame.
12 Auburn Shining Dawn Riesling: This was the delivery of a promise of Trockenbeerenauslese, which it basically is – ripe enough, high enough must weight, almost 100% botrytis, berry selected. Only thing missing is it wasnt made in either Germany or Austria. Searingly intense botrytis apricots over limes, burnt marmalade, and otherworldly acids. Over 320g/l sugar. Not fair for me to rate this given my involvement, but Huon Hooke awarded it 96.